Anatomy of a Gas Fire Pit: Every Component Explained

Short answer

A gas fire pit is ten required parts and about five optional ones, stacked from the enclosure up to the media. Required: enclosure, drain, vents on propane, burner pan, burner, orifice or air mixer, ignition, gas valve, certified flex connector, non-combustible media. Manuals set the numbers — 2½″–4″ pan recess, ¼″ drain holes, 18 sq in of vent per side, 7″/11″ water column.

Burner pan recess
2½″–4″Firegear 2½″–3″; The Outdoor Plus drop-in 4″
Pan drain holes
¼″Firegear pan specification
Enclosure venting
18 sq inper side, two opposing sides minimum
Supply pressure
7″ / 11″ WCnatural gas / propane, ±1″

What are all the parts of a gas fire pit, from the ground up?

Underneath is a box. Inside the box is a sheet-metal tray. Bolted through the tray is a tube with holes in it. Feeding that tube is a metered gas path. On top sits the part you actually look at. Everything else is weather protection.

No two sellers draw the line between "the fire pit" and "the parts" in the same place. A finished table arrives with twelve of these assembled, a burner kit gives you five, a masonry build gives you none — which is why our components department exists.

Component What it does Required? Without it
Enclosure / cabinet Holds the pan at height, hides hardware and tank Required Burner radiates at ground level
Base & drain opening Lets rain and condensate exit the cavity Required Rusted valve, seized ignitor, freeze cracks
Enclosure vents Lets leaked vapor escape at floor level Required on propane Heavier-than-air gas pools in a sealed box
Burner pan / plate Carries media, keeps it out of the ports, sets flame below the rim Required Media falls in; flame sits at rim height
Burner Distributes gas through drilled ports Required Nothing to burn from
Orifice / air mixer Meters gas, pre-mixes air for the fuel Required Soot, lifting flame, or over-fire
Ignition system Match-lit, spark, or electronic flame sensing Required No safe way to start it
Gas valve / key valve On-off and flame height Required No control, no emergency shutoff
Flex connector Certified link from rigid pipe to appliance Required Uncertified hose fails inspection
Media (glass or lava) Hides hardware, diffuses flame, radiates heat Required Harsh jet flame; hardware cooks
Wind guard Blocks crosswind at flame level Optional, until it isn't Blow-out and ignition lockouts
Lid Rigid plate making a table surface Optional No usable tabletop
Weather cover Fabric cover over the whole unit Optional Debris in media, water in cavity
Tank enclosure Houses a 20 lb cylinder outside the body If the tank won't fit Exposed cylinder beside the table

Does the enclosure material change how a fire pit performs?

It changes weight, freeze behavior and finish — not how the fire burns. GFRC, glass fiber reinforced concrete, dominates premium fire tables: thin-wall cast concrete with alkali-resistant fiber instead of rebar, which is how a 60″ table ships at a weight two people can move. Powder-coated steel is cheaper but lives or dies by its coating. Aluminum is rare — our catalog carries one aluminum item, a torch post. Site-built is the fourth path: a steel-stud box skinned in cement board and tiled, which puts every requirement below onto your installer.

Why is the drain hole the part nobody thinks about?

Because it is a hole. Nobody photographs a hole, and it is the most common reason a gas fire pit stops working after a wet week. There are two of them.

Firegear specifies ¼″ drainage holes in the burner pan "to prevent standing water in pan." The enclosure needs its own escape at floor level — American Fyre Designs calls for two 1″ × 4″ openings at floor level, 180 degrees apart, for drainage specifically, separate from the vents. Trapped water corrodes the valve and ignition, fills burner ports so the flame goes ragged, and in a freeze expands inside a concrete base and cracks it. That last one is not a warranty claim.

The expensive mistake: finishing a site-built enclosure with a sealed, waterproof-looking base and no drain, because a box with holes in the bottom looks unfinished on install day. The first real rain fills the cavity, media wicks water into the pan, and by spring the owner is buying a burner, a valve and an ignition module. Drill the drains before you tile. See also how to winterize a gas fire pit.

Does a propane fire pit enclosure really need vents?

Yes, and placement is not negotiable. Propane vapor is roughly 1.5 times the density of air, so a leak inside a sealed cabinet does not dissipate — it settles to the floor and waits. Natural gas rises out on its own. The published figures converge.

The Outdoor Plus requires one vent on at least two sides, 18 square inches each (example: 3″ × 6″ or larger), placed mid-to-low. Firegear requires 18 square inches of cross ventilation on opposite sides — three 2″×3″ slots per side, or two 6″×12″ vents. American Fyre Designs goes further on tank-in-base models: four openings, 10 sq in free area each, 40 sq in total. Cross ventilation is the operative phrase: two vents on the same wall move nothing.

What is the difference between a fire pit pan and a burner?

The burner is the gas tube with the ports. The pan is the tray it bolts into. They ship together often enough that the words get swapped and people order the wrong one. The pan carries the media load, keeps glass and rock out of the ports, and sets recess depth so flame sits below the rim.

Firegear calls for 2½″ to 3″; The Outdoor Plus distinguishes a drop-in pan recessed 4″ from a flat pan recessed 2″ minimum, and custom builders set the pan 3″–5″ below the finished surface with 6″ from burner to edge. Burner shape — cross, H, linear, ring, bullet — drives flame pattern more than BTU does; see our burner types guide. All 22 items in our burners collection are The Outdoor Plus, from $76.

Why does propane use a different orifice than natural gas?

Because propane carries roughly 2.5 times the heat content per cubic foot and arrives at higher pressure. Same hole, same seconds, far more energy. The Outdoor Plus is explicit about the fix: going from propane to natural gas means removing the LP air mixer and orifice and fitting the NG mixer and NG orifice; the reverse removes the NG mixer and adds an LP regulator with the LP orifice. American Fyre Designs part-numbers orifices by fuel and burner size.

Do not "convert" by swapping the hose. A propane appliance fed natural gas through an LP orifice starves — small, lazy, yellow flame that never reaches height. A natural gas appliance fed propane through an NG orifice over-fires: roaring flame, soot, heat loads on parts never rated for it. Conversion means changing metering hardware, usually a factory kit. Ask us for the model-specific part number.

How does a gas fire pit actually get lit?

Three tiers, and the gap between them is the largest line item in most builds. Match-lit is a manual key valve plus a long lighter: cheapest, most reliable, no electronics, no automatic shutoff. Push-button spark adds a piezo or battery igniter to that same valve. Electronic ignition with flame sensing adds a control module, an electrode and a flame rod that closes the valve when flame is lost. American Fyre Designs charges a flat $2,570–$2,571 for FyreStarter across every model; The Outdoor Plus rates theirs Mini 195,000, Standard 295,000, High 500,000 BTU. See match lit vs. electronic ignition.

Not sure which parts your build actually needs?

Send us the model, the fuel type and a photo of the space. We'll list the components required and the ones you can skip — no guesswork, no upsell.

Ask our fire feature team Browse manufacturer manuals

Where do the valve, shutoff and flex line go?

The user-facing control is usually a key valve through the enclosure face. The Outdoor Plus requires it "readily accessible," with no kink in the flex line behind it — it is the part you reach for when something goes wrong. A separate manual shutoff belongs in the supply line: American Fyre Designs requires one within 6 feet of the unit and easily accessible, Firegear one at the exterior house wall, Prism Hardscapes a ½″ NPT gas-rated ball valve. Our key valve selection is small — three items, $44 to $92.

The connector between rigid pipe and appliance must be certified, rated to the product's maximum BTU and listed to ANSI Z21.75 / CSA 6.27. Use whistle-free hose only; yellow corrugated flex whistles at full flow. On propane the cylinder connection is a QCC-1 coupling with integral regulator under ANSI Z21.58 / CGA 1.6, hand-tightened. Upstream, American Fyre Designs specifies ½″ minimum interior diameter pipe — undersized runs are the top reason a fire pit never reaches rated flame. See gas line sizing before you trench.

How much fire glass or lava rock goes over the burner?

Less than people think. Media restricts the outlet, and overfilling builds back pressure — ragged flame, delayed ignition, pops on shutdown. The Outdoor Plus specifies ¼″ to ½″ of fire glass over the burner and says plainly: do not overfill. For lava rock they allow a 2″ layer with no more than 1″ above burner height. Firegear sets the same 1″ ceiling and requires base media at 1″ minimum diameter. American Fyre Designs caps either media at 2″ above the burner. Which you pick is a heat and maintenance trade: fire glass vs. lava rock. Both are in our fire glass and media collection, from $19.

When does a wind guard stop being an accessory?

When you have flame sensing and any exposure. On a match-lit unit wind is annoying — the flame lays over and you burn gas for less heat. On an electronic system wind is a shutdown: the sensor loses flame, the module closes the valve, and you relight all evening. Rooftops, lakefronts and anything above the second floor should budget for one from day one. The nine guards in our wind guard collection run $380 to $696.

Is a fire pit lid the same thing as a cover?

No, and the words get swapped constantly. A lid is a rigid plate — stainless, aluminum or matching concrete — that drops over the burner opening and turns the fire pit into a table surface you can set drinks on. Lids are sized to specific openings, so you order by model and dimension; our lid range runs 53 items from around $161. A cover is a fitted fabric bag that goes over the whole unit for weeks at a time, keeping rain, needles and pollen out of the media and the cavity. Our weather cover selection holds four, from $67, because most brands sell covers model-matched to their own tables.

Where does the propane tank live if it does not fit inside?

A standard 20 lb cylinder is roughly 12″ in diameter by 18″ tall, holds 20 lb / 5 gallons maximum, and must have a collar protecting the valve. Round bowls, narrow linear tables and anything under about 20″ tall will not swallow that, which is why only nine of our units carry a tank bay in the base; on everything else the tank moves into a matching side cabinet that holds it, vents it and runs a hose across. Our tank enclosure collection carries eight, $260 to $682, mostly Prism Hardscapes and American Fyre Designs. If natural gas is an option, take it: a 20 lb tank holds about 430,000 BTU, roughly 6.6 hours at 65,000 BTU/hr.1 See natural gas vs. propane.

What fails, what symptom it gives, and which part is to blame

Most parts lists are exploded diagrams. This is the same appliance read backwards — from the thing going wrong to the component that caused it.

Symptom Part responsible What's actually wrong
No gas at all, valve open Shutoff valve or regulator Upstream valve closed, or LP regulator in bypass
Clicks but no spark Igniter / electrode Dead battery, corroded electrode, wet module
Lights, dies in 10–30 seconds Flame sensor / thermocouple Sensor out of the flame or oxidized
Small lazy yellow flame on propane Orifice / air mixer Natural gas orifice on a propane line
Oversized roaring flame, sooting Orifice / regulator Propane through a natural gas orifice
Flame on part of the burner only Burner ports Ports plugged with media dust or corrosion
Ragged flame, pops on shutdown Media depth More than ½″ glass or 1″ rock above the burner
Water in the pan, gurgling Pan drain holes ¼″ drains blocked or never drilled
Rusted valve, seized key Enclosure drain Cavity holding water, no floor-level escape
Cracked concrete base after winter Enclosure drain Trapped water froze inside the wall
Flame blows out in light wind Wind guard (missing) Crosswind at flame level; then lockout
Gas smell at ground level, propane Enclosure vents Sealed cabinet holding vapor — shut gas off now
Never reaches full flame height Supply line sizing Undersized or over-long pipe run

A gas smell means shutting off the supply and calling a licensed gas technician before relighting. Longer walkthrough: why won't my gas fire pit light.

What actually comes included, depending on how you buy?

This generates more surprised phone calls than anything else, and nobody publishes the answer side by side. The same fire pit can arrive as one box or as nine.

How you buy In the box You buy separately Gas work
Finished fire table Enclosure, pan, burner, orifice, valve or ignition, flex line, usually media Wind guard, lid, cover, tank enclosure Stub-out and connection
Drop-in burner insert kit Pan, burner, air mixer or orifice, valve or ignition, flex line Enclosure, media, drains and vents, lid Supply run plus enclosure build
Burner only, as a component Burner and mounting hardware Pan, orifice, valve, ignition, flex line, media, enclosure Everything — design-level build
Ready-to-finish / cement board form Structural form, usually with pre-cut vent and access openings Pan, burner, gas train, ignition, media, finish Full build plus finish trade
Site-built masonry Nothing — you spec every part All of it, plus drain and vent detailing Hardest place to get drains and vents right

The fire pit kits collection is the middle path at 88 items, and our complete fire pit buying guide works through the decision. Sizing the opening: what size fire table do I need, with 110 finished tables to measure against. If gas is not settled, gas vs. wood burning fire pits is the prior question — none of these parts exist on a wood unit.

Build the parts list once, correctly

Pans, burners, valves, media and enclosure hardware in one place — or have us assemble the list for your model so nothing arrives missing.

Shop fire pit components See all 22 burners

Fire pit component questions we get asked

Is the burner pan the same as the burner?

No. The burner is the drilled gas tube that makes flame. The pan is the tray it mounts into, holding media and setting recess depth — 2½″ to 3″ on Firegear units, 4″ for a drop-in pan from The Outdoor Plus. Kits often ship them assembled, hence the confusion.

Do I really need drain holes in a gas fire pit?

Yes, in two places. Firegear specifies ¼″ drainage holes in the burner pan. The enclosure needs its own floor-level escape: American Fyre Designs calls for two 1″ × 4″ openings 180 degrees apart. Trapped water corrodes the valve and ignition, and cracks a concrete base in a freeze.

How many vents does a propane fire pit enclosure need?

At least two, on opposite sides, 18 square inches each — the published figure from both The Outdoor Plus and Firegear. American Fyre Designs requires four openings of 10 sq in each on tank-in-base models. Placement is low, because propane vapor settles rather than rising.

Can I run a natural gas fire pit on propane?

Only with the correct conversion parts. Propane needs a smaller orifice and different air mixing. Propane through a natural gas orifice over-fires the burner: oversized flame, soot, heat on components not rated for it. Most manufacturers sell a model-specific conversion kit — ask for that part number.

How deep should fire glass sit over the burner?

Shallow. The Outdoor Plus specifies ¼″ to ½″ of fire glass above the burner and warns against overfilling, which creates back pressure. Lava rock can go deeper, but no more than 1″ above burner height. American Fyre Designs caps either media at 2″.

What is the difference between a fire pit lid and a cover?

A lid is a rigid plate — steel, aluminum or concrete — that drops over the burner opening to create a table surface. A cover is a fitted fabric bag over the whole unit for storage. Lids get used daily, covers seasonally. Many owners buy both.

Where does the shutoff valve have to be?

Within reach. American Fyre Designs requires a manual shutoff within 6 feet of the unit and easily accessible. Firegear requires one at the exterior house wall. Prism Hardscapes specifies a ½″ NPT gas-rated ball valve. The key valve itself mounts through the enclosure face.

What gas pressure does a fire pit need?

Nominal 7″ water column on natural gas, 11″ WC on propane, plus or minus about 1″. The Outdoor Plus publishes 3.5″–14″ WC natural gas and 8″–14″ WC propane; Firegear lists 5″–10.5″ and 10.5″–13″. Your installer verifies it with a manometer.

Does every fire pit need a wind guard?

No, but any unit with electronic flame sensing in an exposed spot effectively does. Wind pulls flame off the sensor, the module shuts the gas, and you relight repeatedly. On rooftops, lakefronts and upper floors treat it as a required part, not an accessory.

Can I build the fire pit enclosure myself?

The enclosure, yes — cement board or a ready-to-finish form over a steel-stud frame is standard practice. The gas work, no. Connection, pressure testing and leak checking must be done by a licensed gas technician under the National Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1 / NFPA 54.

Sources and accuracy note. Dimensions, ventilation areas, drain specs, media depths and gas pressures come from current manufacturer installation manuals: The Outdoor Plus Fire Pit Manual and Match Lit Fire Pit Insert Manual; Firegear Outdoors Pro T-Burner instructions; American Fyre Designs owner's manuals; Prism Hardscapes Moderno Series manual. Requirements differ by brand and model — follow the manual that shipped with your unit, also on our manuals and guides page.

1 Propane runtime is our own calculation, not a manufacturer figure: 20 lb × 21,548 BTU/lb = 430,000 BTU ÷ 65,000 BTU/hr = 6.6 hours, about 4.7 gallons.

Gas fire pit installation, fuel conversion and pressure testing must be performed by a licensed gas technician in accordance with the National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1 / NFPA 54) and all applicable local codes.

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